After cutting and sewing your 1,2,3,4,5 pieces together, your front cover should look like this.

Then I draw the 1/2 inch border all around.
I accidentally used a Frixion iron-away pen. Whew! I was just beginning to trace the design. Right after the photo was taken, I removed it and changed to a fine-line blue wash-away pen. 
The reason for this is, There will be fusible interfacing added to the back of the front cover. Interfacing adds stability and helps make projects like this crisp and clean. Ironing heat would cause all my lines to disappear.

The 1/2 inch border gives extra fabric in case the embroidery pulls up too much fabric, Now you have a little extra to trim to the correct size.

​Ready to trace the entire front.

Traced and started my embroidery.

I like to use a spring type hoop when I can.
It moves about my work quickly.

The linen-looking fabric is a Moda. They call it a Slub Linen. It is pretty thick. I am using linens more and more. I love this rustic look.
This linen was pretty thick. I wasn't sure I was going to be able to get the hoop around it. 

If the work wouldn't go into the spring hoop, I would have changed and used a wood hoop. Not a problem, as wood hoops always have a sweet vintage look to them.

After embroidery is done, it is time to trim your front to 8 x 12-1/2 inches.
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Next, make the pocket flaps the notebooks cover will slip into.
Cut two. 4-1/2 x 8 inches. Both of these get backed with interfacing as well. Then they get a simple hem along the 8 inch length on one side only. 

Then, right sides together, place them on the stitched cover.

Also in this photo, you can see the twill tape I placed. It will act as a bookmark in your journal. It is placed approximately 2 inches from the right side. 

Make sure the twill (or ribbon if you prefer) does not get caught in the seam. It is only hanging so you can see it.

Next, the interfaced lining gets placed on top of all. Notice the lining has two pieces of interfacing. I used up all my scraps making this. So, I found tow pieces to fit the back and fused them on. All good! As this will never be seen again.
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Everything is right sides together. 

Look close, you can see the 1/4 inch short side on the lining. The lining sides will not get caught in the seam. 

You can see I used clips to hold it all. The lining gap on sides is not caught in the seam and the ribbon or twill is stuck safely inside. 

Here is a quick little how-to on a simple and effective stitching technique I use on my dishtowel embroidery. 

Lots of you ask if they are ok to wash? the answer is, yes!  I wash and dry my towels all the time. Instruction number 1 is: pre-wash your blank towel. I wash mine in warm water on a regular setting. Then I dry on a warm or hot setting. Your new towel is ready to trace and stitch.

Little note here...Be sure to check if your towel has a barcode sticker on them. If you happen to have missed it, I have heard fingernail polish remover works just great to remove the sticky residue. Then re-wash.

After a year or so, I stop treating them nicely and they get thrown in with whatever matches the dishtowel. Usually a load of other towels or t-shirts. 
Remember, every washing makes them a bit softer 🫧 🧼 

I do find that sometimes the little lazy daisy stitches get a little out of whack.
When I use 2 strands for most of the Lazy Daisy stitches done, they do seem to hold up better.
​On the latest towel. Cheers! The New Year Towel, it uses single strands to tie all those little stars and starbursts to the hanging glistening garland. So, I have added a little video on my "couching" those little bows to hold them in place.